Stage 43 - Laza to Vilar de Barrio (20km): 11/10/2014 07:30

A difficult climb

That was a very tough day but it was expected after the long gentle downhill we had yesterday. We were down in a valley and had another mountain to climb. We started the day at 451 metres and climbed to 975, much of it up a steep rocky path, bringing to mind our climb up Benlettery some years ago. Back then there was a note on the door of the closed hostel at the foot of the mountain, which read, "If you have come this far you are planning to climb Benlettery. Don't." We did and lived to tell the tale. 

There was no such notice at the bottom of today's climb but the guidebooks said it would be difficult and it was. Unlike Benlettery there was a village at the top of today's mountain and in the village there was a bar/cafe where we were able to have a bocadillo. The cafe is festooned with scallop shells bearing the names of peregrinos who dropped in. There is another there now, with the inscription, "Liam and Pauline, Galway, Ireland 11/10/2014".

We could actually have stayed in an albergue there but we had looked at the 7km of downhill walking to end the day and decided that it was doable. It wasn't as easy as we had expected as the slope was much steeper than the previous day and instead of road we were often on a rough track.

Coffee and toast were very welcome
I should add that Amigos of the Camino have established a donativo cafe about 3km before the start of the serious climb. As we had no proper breakfast it was great to sit down to coffee and toast 4km into today's walk.

We have a few more climbs ahead of us after Ourense but we have reason to believe that today was the last of the really tough days.

All the peregrinos we got to know are away ahead of us. Tonight we have a new set - three men, probably Spanish, and a young couple who are cycling, possibly Slovenian. They are all in one dormitory and we are in the other. A Basque couple, who we met on the mountain, spent some time on the phone at the door of the albergue. I presume they are now in a casa rural.

806km completed, 145km to go.


We passed this church early in the day



An ancient village

A fairly common sight
Next: Stage 44 - Vilar de Barrio to Xunqueira de Ambia

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