Stage 31 - Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela (23.1km): 29/09/2014 07:04

The ruined Cistercian Monastery (Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela)

We had a bit of a hill to climb to get away from Montamarta but after that it was relatively level. What could have been a very pleasant walk was marred for long stretches by the construction of the AVE high speed rail track and motorways. The waymarking to get past these obstructions left much to be desired. Our first problem was that we appeared to have missed a diversion arrow and followed earlier arrows which petered out at a highway. We followed the highway and eventually met up with the Camino again.

The terrain improved after that and took us past a picturesque reservoir and the remains of the former capital of Leon and headquarters of the Knights of St James - about 900 years ago. There wasn't much left of it as it is mostly under the water in the reservoir.

After that it was back to the construction work and often muddy paths. Approaching Granja we ran out any type of markers and had to make our way across a half-made motorway to reach our destination.

Once again we are in a busy albergue. I think we have 11 Peregrinos staying here, at least eight of us ate together in the Zamora albergue two nights ago.

Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruel
All the guidebooks recommend a visit to an old Cistercian monastery, 3.7km from here. We don't walk more than necessary but a notice in the albergue offered a lift and guided tour, on a donativo basis. Six of us took up the offer and it was indeed worth a visit, although the guide was fixated with the pre-Christian aspects of the site.

576km completed according to Googles "My Tracks", 373km to go (from here on I'll use the figure in the Confraternity of St James (UK) guide.


Remains of the ancient capital of Leon (much of it is under a nearby  reservoir)

The albergue in Granja de Moreruela

 Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela (note mason's mark in stones)

Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela 


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