Stage 36 - San Salvador de Palazuelo to Puebla de Sanabria (19.1km): 04/10/2014 07:30

An early start

We were hoping that the bar at the next village would be open at 9:00am so a 7:30am start seemed reasonable. Louis went on ahead as we returned the key and we set off at our own pace. The day started with a long downhill in the dark which doesn´t suit Pauline and was immediately followed by a long uphill which doesn´t suit me.

We got over those hurdles and were walking along a remote forest path at first light when we came across a parked car. A short distance from the car, in among the trees, we could make out the silhouette of a man who appeared to be carrying a basket and a stick. I guessed correctly that he was out looking for mushrooms - "setas grandes negra", to be exact. Throughout the morning we saw many people searching for mushrooms - the fact that it was Saturday may have accounted for the numbers.

We arrived at the village of Asturianos sometime after nine and found Louis seated outside a bar, but the bar wasn´t opening until ten. We were able to tell him that he could have that all-important cup of coffee three kilometres on. He set off while we stopped for a rest and some nibbles. By the way, Louis definitely does not qualify to be described as middle-aged. We have since established that he is older than us, a lot fitter perhaps, but older.

We eventually arrived at the next village, Palacios de Sanabria, where we found Louis enjoying a coffee. We stopped for our coffee and tostados and noticed a

A good morning's work - receipt says €64.24

fair bit of activity in relation to mushrooms. There seemed to be an official market for them and the accompanying photograph shows a small crate of mushrooms which, as far as I could make out, were being put in the back of a dealer´s van.

We were on the road before Louis and he caught up with us at Remesal where we were taking off our fleeces. It was there we had a slight mishap. Pauline´s glasses ended up on the ground and must have been trodden on. Both lens popped out and one screw was missing. Fortunately she had a reserve pair and the good ones are unlikely to get repaired until we reach Ourense.

We stopped for a wayside lunch at Otero de Sanabria and, as we were packing

Stop for lunch - veil will have to come off face

up, along came another Peregrino. It turned out to be Tom from Dublin, whom Louis had told us was some 10km behind us (at the start of the day). We walked the last few kilometres into Puebla de Sanabria with Tom and ended up in the same dormitory as Louis. The four of us would later have a very enjoyable dinner in the evening. In the meantime we had to have a bite to eat and do some sightseeing.

The hill-top centre of Puebla de Sanabria seems unchanged over the centuries, except for the 12 Porsches incongruously parked in front of the 12-century church. In addition to the church, it has a castle, a second smaller church and many fine old buildings and houses.

While in the albergue in Puebla de Sanabria we met Alain and Danielle from Brittany who are keeping a detailed blog, with lots of photographs, of their Camino.

693km completed, 259km to go