Tuesday: Day One without walking; 21/10/2014

Preparing to swing the Botafumeiro

We are enjoying our relaxation in Santiago and have no unfulfilled urges to go for long walks each day. We still wake up early but have no difficulty in turning over and going back to sleep.

On our first full day here we attended the Pilgrim Mass at noon and did some shopping. Four years ago the Butofumeiro seemed to be only brought into use at the Pilgrim Mass on Sundays or when arranged by an organised group of pilgrims or tour company. Last year and this year it was used every day while we were here.

Sitting in the lounge here at the Hospederia I was looking at a man who I thought we might have met briefly on the Camino. When I heard him speak English to someone I was more convinced. I later approached him and discovered that he was not the Englishman I thought he was, but Tony Lawler from Limerick, who has spent most of his life in England. He had walked from Fatima. Earlier in the year, along with his wife, he had walked from Lourdes. He was very quick to really pin down my accent and I soon found out why. His wife, who wasn't walking on this occasion, is from the next parish to me in Greenock.

We had again met up with David from Australia and arranged to meet up with him for dinner in Manolo's. We were introduced to Manolo's, which caters specifically for the peregrino, last year and found it to serve good food and provide great value. It offers five starters and ten main courses, five meat and five fish, and dessert for €9. That includes bread and water. Wine is extra but the bottle Pauline and David had to share cost just €4.50.

I ordered the same as I ordered last year - pimientos de padron followed by grilled sole. I always enjoy the pimientos and had them the night before in another restaurant. In Manolo's I had forgotten that you can get the occasional hot one until I sunk my teeth into the largest pepper on the plate. It nearly blew my head off. It took some time before I recovered sufficiently to eat the remainder of the peppers much more cautiously.


Staying at the Hospedería San Martín Pinario has become a key part of our Camino

For most peregrinos coming down these steps leads to the final metres of their Camino
They served me well on this and previous Caminos but they have now served their purpose
I had to have my photograph taken with a Celtic fan who had just completed the Camino Frances
Next: Our Camino - the Last word - November 2, 2014


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