Stage 17 - Alcántara to Grimaldo (19.2km): 14/09/2014 06:25

Pauline crossing a stream via a log

We don't normally start the day with breakfast but did today as it was included in the price of the stay. That had us leaving at 6:30am and we were immediately faced with a steep path of rocks, stones and gravel. It would have been difficult enough in daylight but it was doubly difficult in the dark. It got me thinking about the wisdom of two people our age, from the west of Ireland, trying to find our way by torchlight in the morning darkness on a lonely path in a remote part of Spain and not a house light visible in a 20km radius.

Because of the conditions we made a slow start. One guidebook suggested we bypass the small town of Cañaveral. I wasn't sure that we would find the correct turn off the path but in the event we took a wrong turn, which turned out to be the turn for Grimaldo where we were headed.

The "penitential" climb - much steeper than it looks in the photograph
We knew we had a climb after Cañaveral but it was steeper than we expected. I saw an almost vertical track ahead, but it looked as if it had been prepared by a bulldozer yesterday, so I ruled that out. I was wrong. I think someone, somewhere, said, "They want penance, I'll give them penance!" It would have been nice to have had a bench to sit on when we reached the top, but I suppose that would not have been in the spirit of things. 


Downhill through a pine forest
We were rewarded with a pleasant, mostly downhill, walk through a pine forest which offered some shade from the sun. Further down we walked for about 5km through acres of cork trees to arrive in Grimaldi, population 91 and no WiFi. Just outside the village we had to cross a stream by balancing on a log which acted as a bridge.

Today's walk was 19.2km, which was the longest predicted by any of the guidebooks. En route we again met up with Marie Jose, the Italian man and the German woman. The five of us, along with a Swedish man, a French man and another German woman stayed in the same albergue and enjoyed the Peregrino menu al fresco. We also had a young Spanish man in the albergue but he cooked for himself - after walking almost 50km in one day.

284km completed, 648km to go


Communal dinner al fresco

A fallen cork tree
Next: Stage 18 - Grimaldo to Galisteo

Comments