Stage 11 - Aljucen to Alcuescar (19.4km): 08/09/2014 05:21

The albergue is the top floor of the home of a religious congregation who care for 75 people with special needs

What seemed like something of a disaster at 8:00am we can view in the afternoon as a minor hiccup, now that our stomachs are again full and the day's walking is over. One guidebook suggested we had 21km to walk so we had our earliest start to date. We set off at 5:25am with two bocadillos to sustain us on a journey of over six hours. We also had two squares of chocolate and one boiled sweet. We limited ourselves to a drink of water at our 6:30 stop - of course we had plenty of water and could drink at any time.  At 7:15 we shared one of the squares of chocolate. The plan was to eat half a bocadillo each at 8 o'clock but when we removed the foil wrapping we discovered that they were crawling with ants. There was nothing for it but to abandon the two bocadillos. We should have stored them in the fridge overnight but we were planning a quick getaway without disturbing anyone else.

At the 9 o'clock stop Pauline discovered an energy bar in her backpack. Over that and the next two rest stops we judiciously shared the remaining square of chocolate and the energy bar. At about 15km we discovered some blackberries growing along the path and that was a help. I had been hoping to find a fig tree and was finally lucky two kilometres from our destination. However I could only reach two ripe fruit. It was also a day when we didn't see a vine until the final few kilometres.

We had to pass our albergue on the way into Alcuescar so we checked in, showered, changed and had the washing hanging out to dry before heading up the hill to find a restaurant. On the way we learned that today is a feast day and all the shops are closed. Provisions are again going to be a problem tomorrow. 

I double counted two Spanish ladies in the albergue yesterday so it was 17 pilgrims that arrived. The Italian couple who arrived last, found accommodation elsewhere, leaving 15 in the albergue. I don't know what happened to them all today. The two Polish girls were first to pass us and are now away ahead. The three French pilgrims also passed us but are staying here, as are the three Spanish women who arrived after we did. We lost everyone else but still have a full albergue, having been joined by three Italian men and a Polish girl, none of whom we have seen before.

This is fine albergue. It is run on a donativo basis - you pay what you choose. It also offers a communal meal on the same basis and all 12 pilgrims took part. Mass before the meal was optional but most attended. At the end the priest called all the pilgrims up to the altar for a prayer and a blessing.

Earlier, after we had eaten lunch, I went for a bit of a wander and started meeting people carrying plates of paella or sitting down on steps eating paella. On reaching the square I found a long queue waiting to be served from the biggest paella pan you have ever seen, set up just outside the town hall. It all seemed to be free and part of the celebration of whichever saint's feast day it was.

The paella queue

Now, that's a paella pan

 

















Next: Stage 12 - Alcuescar to Aldea del Cano